Quilt Festival Blog
A Journey Through Quilting History
Author: Y. Bilan-Wallace
Part Five
Politics in the New World
More English Laws
If England’s textile restrictions weren’t challenging enough for quilters, settlers in North America—especially those in British colonies—faced even greater obstacles in obtaining fabric. The British government expected its colonies to export raw materials like cotton, wool, and flax while relying exclusively on England for finished textiles. Heavy import duties and monopolized trade routes ensured that English merchants profited as middlemen, keeping fabric scarce and expensive in the New World.
Photo by Jose Ignacio Soto (link)
For many settlers, particularly those moving inland, imported textiles were an unaffordable luxury. Instead, they relied on locally sourced materials, homegrown flax, and wool from their own sheep. Making matters worse, English laws outright prohibited the manufacture of textiles in the colonies. In a draconian attempt to maintain control, Britain even banned the ownership of spinning wheels and looms, enforcing severe penalties—including the infamous threat of having one’s hand cut off for defying the ban.
Yet, in a strange contradiction, by 1640, Massachusetts and Connecticut passed laws requiring every family to grow flax and spin three pounds of wool, flax, or cotton per week. In British North America (modern-day Canada), the restrictions were just as frustrating. The colonies depended on the Hudson’s Bay Company and other British-controlled trade networks for fabric, leaving settlers with few options beyond homemade alternatives.
Breaking Britain's Textile Monopoly
Determined to maintain its industrial dominance, Britain also banned the export of textile-manufacturing machinery and even prohibited skilled textile workers from emigrating to the colonies. But defiance was inevitable. In 1789, Samuel Slater, an English textile worker, secretly memorized the blueprints for a spinning machine and smuggled his knowledge to America. By 1793, the first cotton-spinning mill was operational, breaking England’s tight grip on the industry.
The textile industry expanded rapidly, from 8,000 spindles in 1807 to 800,000 by 1825. By 1823, the first calico factory opened in the United States, providing locally produced printed fabric for clothing and quilts. In Canada, however, progress was slower. Even after the Napoleonic Wars ended, tariffs and British control of trade meant Canadian settlers still struggled to obtain affordable fabric.
The Rise of Canadian Textile Manufacturing
It wasn’t until the early to mid-19th century that textile mills began to emerge in Canada. The first mechanized woollen mill was established in Ancaster, Upper Canada (Ontario), in 1825, followed by others in Quebec and Nova Scotia. By the 1850s, Canadian factories were producing wool, linen, and eventually cotton fabric, reducing reliance on British imports.
The expansion of textile production in Canada had a profound impact on quilting. While early Canadian settlers often relied on scrap fabrics and repurposed materials, by the mid-1800s, a greater variety of printed fabrics became available. This allowed for the creation of more elaborate quilts, including signature styles like the Redwork quilt and variations of Log Cabin and Star patterns, which became popular across Canada.
Upper Canada Village – The Asseltine Woollen Mill by Ron@MegapixelTravel.com
(Article link)
The End of British Control
Despite Britain’s efforts to maintain control over textile production, industrialization and changing trade policies gradually loosened its grip. By the late 19th century, Canadian quilters had access to a wider range of affordable fabrics, allowing quilting to flourish as both a necessity and a form of artistic expression. The once tightly restricted industry had finally become a cornerstone of North American domestic life, helping to shape the traditions that persist in Canadian quilting today.
The Modern Textile Industry in Canada and Future Challenges
Today, Canada’s textile industry is a mix of large-scale manufacturers, independent fabric producers, and a thriving community of quilt and craft enthusiasts. While some domestic mills still produce high-quality wool, linen, and specialty fabrics, much of Canada’s textile production has shifted overseas due to globalization and lower manufacturing costs abroad. This reliance on imported textiles poses challenges for sustainability, affordability, and supply chain stability. Rising transportation costs, global trade disruptions, and the decline of local fabric production could make it harder for Canadian quilters and textile artists to access affordable, high-quality materials in the future. As interest in sustainable and locally sourced textiles grows, there is increasing pressure to revive domestic production and support Canadian-made fabrics.