Quilt Festival Blog

A Journey Through Quilting History

Author: Y. Bilan-Wallace

Part Fourteen

Quilt Designs & Sewing Patterns

Where did quilters find inspiration for their creations? Today, there are thousands of books filled with quilt patterns and instructions. You can even buy pre-selected fabric kits, and the internet offers endless ideas and trends from around the world. But in earlier times, quilting was primarily a craft passed down from one generation to the next. So, when did that begin to change?

Quilt: Life in Black and White by A. Armstrong
(Displayed at the 2023 Quilt Festival)

Looking at the history of home sewing provides some clues. According to A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution, several key developments took place between 1825 and 1850. The growing availability of sewing machines played a major role, but another crucial shift was the invention of inexpensive paper, thanks to steam-powered paper-making machines. This led to an explosion of affordable dressmaking publications and patterns. Additionally, the expansion of the national postal system made it possible to order patterns by mail—even from remote areas.

1888 Antique BUTTERICK PATTERN CATALOG Victorian Fashion Riding Habits Dresses

In 1860, Ebenezer Butterick founded the Butterick Company, which produced cardboard cut-outs for children’s clothing patterns. A decade later, Scottish immigrant James McCall launched his own line of sewing patterns, laying the foundation for the McCall’s brand. But what about quilt patterns? While evidence of early quilt pattern publications is scarce, by the late 1920s and 1930s, quilt patterns were widely available for purchase. Companies like McCall’s sold complete quilt patterns, and newspapers such as The Kansas City Star regularly published quilting designs for readers to follow.

McCalls Shirt Pattern (After 1908, probably before 1915)

Page from a 1930’s quilting scrapbook that includes numerous
Kansas City Star quilt patterns

Kansas City Star Newspaper Quilt Patterns

If you’re a quilter, you’ve probably heard about these patterns. In 1928 the Kansas City Star newspaper started publishing quilt patterns for their readers. They did this weekly through the mid 1930’s then off and on until 1961. By the time they stopped publishing, over 1,000 quilt patterns had been published in the Kansas City Star newspaper and it’s sister publications.

Nell Snead was the fashion editor of The Star during that time. One of her responsibilities was to find patterns for the paper.  Sometimes they were submitted by local quilters. They would then be professionally designed for the paper.

If you are interested in learning more about these and other vintage patterns, this blog has some interesting articles.  To finish reading this entry about the Kansas City Star patterns written by Debra from Vintage Crafts and More, click here.  (includes the Christmas tree pattern from 1932)

Over a hundred years later, quilting saw another wave of innovation. In 1979, the introduction of the rotary cutter revolutionized the craft by allowing quilters to cut fabric with speed and precision—far more efficiently than traditional scissors. While sewing machines had long been used for piecing quilt tops, hand quilting remained the standard for finishing a quilt. It wasn’t until the 1980s that machine quilting gained broad acceptance in the quilting community. As sewing machine technology improved, machine quilting allowed for faster completion and more intricate designs, paving the way for new creative possibilities.

By the late 20th and early 21st centuries, computer software programs enabled quilters not only to design their own patterns but even to automate quilting itself through computerized sewing and embroidery machines. Long-arm quilting machines further transformed the process, making it easier to create intricate stitching designs on large quilts.

With modern technology, quilting continues to evolve. Digital fabric printing allows quilters to create custom fabric designs, while laser cutters can precisely cut quilt pieces with remarkable accuracy. Online quilting communities and virtual classes have made it easier than ever to learn new techniques and share inspiration globally.

From hand-stitched heirlooms to high-tech designs, quilting has come a long way—blending tradition with innovation in ways past generations could hardly have imagined.

Digital Fabric Printing (link to photo/article)