Politics and Fabric Scarcity

In the early 1700s, the British government banned the import of printed cotton fabrics from India, Persia, and China—including the highly desirable calico—in an effort to protect England’s wool industry. This prohibition extended to the British colonies in North America, including those that would later become Canada, making calico both rare and highly sought after. Its scarcity wasn’t the only reason for its appeal—calico was one of the most durable and colorfast textiles of its time, making it ideal for quilting and everyday use.

For settlers in British North America, fabric shortages were a persistent challenge. While homespun wool and linen were common, cotton remained scarce. Many Canadian women turned to resourceful solutions, weaving their own cloth, dyeing fabric with local plants, and repurposing old garments into patchwork quilts. Quilting became an essential practice—not just for warmth, but as a way to preserve every precious piece of fabric.

In New France (modern-day Quebec), the French were not subject to England’s textile bans, and fabrics were more readily available through trade with France. However, after the British conquest in 1763, these supplies became harder to obtain. The fur trade, rather than textile production, dominated the economy, meaning that most cloth still had to be imported.

By 1774, England finally lifted the calico ban, though heavy taxes on printed fabrics persisted until 1831. This shift allowed for greater access to textiles in Canada, and by the mid-1800s, locally produced fabric began to supplement imports. The rise of textile mills in Ontario, Quebec, and Nova Scotia meant that quilters no longer had to rely entirely on British imports.

Given calico’s durability and desirability, even the smallest scraps were repurposed into quilts. What began as a symbol of political control and economic restriction ultimately became a cherished part of quilting history. Today, many traditional Canadian quilt patterns—such as Log Cabin, Star Quilts, and Redwork Quilts—reflect this legacy of resilience, creativity, and adaptation in the face of textile shortages.